Wednesday, March 19, 2008

"The Test of Style"

Now that the new issue of UNVOGUE has been uploaded and ready for viewing by the rest of the world, I wanted to share a little insider’s secret with my CS&B peeps.



UNVOGUE'S MODEL MOMENTS
(A new approach to truly bringing the fashion pages of a magazine to life)

After viewing the video above you will notice that the final shot is of a Mal Sirrah evening gown designed several years ago for America’s Next Top Model Cycle 3 winner, Ms. Eva Pigford. It has always been my goal to design amazingly crafted pieces that look as beautiful and stylish today as they looked when they originally went down the catwalk (or in this case the red carpet)… Now you be the judge… Let me know your thoughts about this evening dress simply entitled “The Diva”… Has it passed "The test of style?" - - - Would you too also wear it today?

"The Diva" as it sat draped on my "infamous" dress form where all Mal Sirrah creations are born

Designed for "EVA THE DIVA" circa May 2005

I would like to take this opportunity to thank the folks of UNVOGUE for allowing me to utilize the pages of their magazine to carry out this experiment in “The Test of Style”…

p.s. There is also a hidden connection in the entire "UNVOGUE - Model Moments - The Diva" trilogy... Can you figure it out???

Pardon the Ecru Elephant in the Room...

Today, I witnessed perhaps one of the most important and moving speeches that I have heard to date regarding the “race” (no pun intended) for President of the United States from Senator Barack Obama. Now that we have finally put the spotlight on the ecru elephant in the room – “Where do we go from here?”



Barack Obama Philadelphia Speech on Race Part 1/4

As an African-American working in the fashion industry, I often find myself feeling many of the frustrations that Senator Obama voiced during his speech today. For fear of being accused of playing the “race card”, I am forced not to bring the issue of race into my daily dealings within the fragile and sensitive fashion industry. But as we all know, this finely decorated elephant has always been planted firmly on the catwalks and within the glossy pages of our favorite magazines. However, in fashion we have simply found the perfect shades of aubergine and/or ecru to camouflage racism’s glaring existence.



Barack Obama Philadelphia Speech on Race Part 2/4

I truly do thank the universe for allowing us all to be present for this very important time in the history of our country as well as the future landscaping of the world. It’s funny I never imagined I would find myself spending four hours today attempting to design the perfect “modern” shift dress, two hours rescheduling a planned trip to Tibet with a documentary filmmaker and the next three hours calling and emailing colleagues and friends encouraging them to vote for Obama.




Barack Obama Philadelphia Speech on Race Part 3/4

I also find it odd that almost a week ago I felt the need to celebrate Dr. Martin Luther King as I strolled through New York City enjoying all the freedoms that his generation’s struggles and battles now afford me as an artist and proud American… Today I celebrate the man that I truly do believe has the vision and ability to make Dr. King’s dream a reality for future generations as we move forward in finally becoming the “United States of America”. Senator Barack Obama!!!


Barack Obama Philadelphia Speech on Race Part 4/4

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Today I felt like a KING

There are days when I can’t believe how powerful and strong I feel… And then there are other days when I ask the universe, “Why has my strength abandoned me?”

Today, however, was one of those days when I felt like a KING… Today I felt happy to be a creative - to be strong - to be excited – to be black - to be different - to be caring – to be alive - to be an American - to be sensitive -to be me - to be MALCOLM.

As I sat here preparing to share my thoughts with my peeps this evening, I was hit by an overwhelming sense of gratitude. A sense of gratitude for the man I know to be the reason for every proud step taken by me today. I wondered to myself if I had finally begun to truly live up to his dream…

When you click this video there is a wonderful treat in store. (hint N.S. )

There are so many reasons why I wish Martin Luther King Jr. were still alive to see us ALL today!!! I believe we are truly reaching his dream…


I don't believe we should only celebrate our great leaders and thinkers on their birthdays. We should celebrate them every single time we move towards their ideals.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

J'Adore Holly's Hollywould



Calling all my shopping gals here in New York City!!! One of my dearest fashion mates and hugest supporters, Holly Dunlap, of the brand Hollywould is holding a sample sale today in NYC.

Ms. Holly Dunlap

Holly is truly one of the kindest and sincere people that I have ever had the pleasure of working with in the fashion industry. To be quite honest when we started Designers For Darfur, Hollywould was the very first company to sign on to the project. They didn’t ask any of those fashion and/or P.R. questions like: “What other designers are participating?” - “What do we get out of it?” or worse, “Where is Darfur?” None of these questions came in to play. Hollywould simply responded by saying “Yes – we would love to be a part of Designers for Darfur.” Holly even went the extra mile by designing a beautiful limited edition pair of sandals on behalf of Designers for Darfur (sorry girls they are no longer available).

2007 Limited Edition Hollywould sandal for Designers For Darfur

Please also check out the Hollywould website and see all the wonderful work this company and their founder continue to do all over the world. Not to mention, Holly’s Diary section is absolutely delightful.

Enjoy the sale!
p.s. I can't wait for the "Hollywould for Men" collection - hint, hint Holly!

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Mal Sirrah - Fashion Design 101


So many of you aspiring designers and fashionistas are constantly asking me to explain how I come up with my unique designs. As I mentioned in a previous post, I wish I could tell you that I was one of those designers that sat around and sketched whimsical frocks all day, but this is a bit typical and surely not the Mal Sirrah way…

A single design or group for me usually starts with the sighting of an interesting and engaging woman. You would think in a city like New York you would run across this type of woman all the time, but this is not completely true. For the most part, I find a great number of women in New York City to be quite disengaged if not downright disconnected. But this type of woman holds no interest to me at all. I am only interested in women that live life to its full; women that are active participants in their journeys and not idle voyeurs. I can spot and feel a Mal Sirrah woman a mile away. The spirit of the Mal Sirrah woman doesn’t possess a certain height, weight, race or body type, she simply possesses a vitality and/or vibration that allows her to stand out in a crowd. Therefore, my design process usually starts out by the fortunate sighting of this elusive and rare creature followed by a bit of stalking as well as active voyeurism.

History's greatest story tellers

As an English Lit major I have always been more fascinated by great story telling than in benign drawings and illustrations. My writing and designing are both very much of the Gertrude Stein persuasion wherein grammar and/or punctuation mean very little to me – it is the spirit of the story that always prevails. Therefore my design process actually starts more like that of a novelist than a fashion designer. It is through jotted down notes and ramblings instead of elaborate sketches and/or croquis that my designs come to life. I am much more interested in helping women to tell and/or translate their own stories through fashion rather than projecting and/or dictating my own fantasies onto their pages and form.

Therefore a Mal Sirrah dress is born as follows (excerpt from Malcolm’s Daily Journal):

- Pale toned girl got on subway at 59th Street Columbus Circle (a bit too pensive and serious for a sunny afternoon).

- What a great touch in the dead of summer – a super lightweight pink cashmere scarf! You don’t even have to touch great cashmere – you can tell its quality by the way it drapes and hangs.

- She has the face of a young Amy March in “Little Women” (the book not the movie).

- I can imagine her at that sweet little garden party Taylor is attending this weekend. I wonder why she wanted me to make her dress in black. (Just remembered Taylor’s party has a “Tarts and Vickers” theme). Well maybe she won’t be at Taylor’s afternoon soiree.

- Chiffon would really lighten the spirits of our young Amy March (total Sirrah girl). I am sure a bit of chiffon would really make her come to life.

- How long has it been since I’ve seen a girl secretly reading “The Rules” tucked inside of The New Yorker.

- Maybe she should show a wee bit of skin. Nothing vulgar just a hint or a peek-a-boo detail (could really help her in the opposite sex department, and avoid a re-reading of “Men are from Mars and Women are from Venus”). Screw it – desperate times call for desperate measures - she might need to show a lot of skin.

- Judging from the Equinox gym bag, I’m sure she has great legs.

- Why is she getting off at 14th Street? I figured her for more of Broadway-Lafayette girl. (Bingo – Whole Foods!!!)


So with visions of a modern-day Amy March, a slightly perverse garden party, and yards of gingham chiffon I was able to create one of my favorite Mal Sirrah dresses to date:



Sunday, March 9, 2008

Sneak Peak - UNVOGUE

Hot off the press (or in this case - Hot off of Adobe PhotoShop) - Here is the new spring cover of UNVOGUE Magazine featuring Megg Morales of Red Model Management. I truly do believe that Red Models is one of the strongest and diverse new agencies in the business. Therefore the fit with UNVOGUE and Red Models seems to be a marriage made in fashion heaven - as this cover proves.

Check in with the folks at UNVOGUE later this week to see the full issue.



p.s. Props to the folks over at Marc Jacobs for being one of the first luxury brands on board with the UNVOGUE project (after Mal Sirrah of course - smile)... As you will see from the upcoming issue, it didn't take long for the rest of the industry to follow...

Friday, March 7, 2008

Afternoon Quickie

You guys won’t believe what happened to me this afternoon, as I still can’t process this random and almost surreal moment. I'm talking Dali surreal...


Today at approximately 2:30 p.m., I found myself rushing off to meet my boyfriend at an amazing photographer’s studio to check out the results from a recent collaborative shoot. On my way to the studio, I found myself gabbing on my mobile with a friend that had just returned to the States from Hong Kong and unfortunately was also being detained in U.S. Customs due to his French passport (long story but he made it home safely). Simultaneously, I was carelessly walking and rummaging through my open Louis Vuitton Broadway (the gay man’s Chanel Classic Bag) trying to find a semi-important number that I had jotted down on a random slip of paper. It was like trying to find a needle in a haystack amongst the random receipts, bank withdrawal slips and chewing gum wrappers. According to my accountant I should always save all of my receipts. However, I still haven’t figured out how to properly transfer them all into the bright red folder that my intern has clearly marked “RECEIPTS”. One day soon I will get around to finally filing them away properly. But at that particular moment, I was a walking and talking mess…


Then all of sudden as I whipped around the corner headed to my destination (Lafayette and Bond for those of you who are familiar with Manhattan) I bumped dead smack into a slender gray haired man and his lovely waif-like Japanese assistant. The only reason I knew her to be Japanese was the fact that she began to feverishly apologize “to me” in her native tongue for almost knocking her to the ground. I must admit that I just assumed she was this guy's assistant as she was carrying a pile of folders, a shopping bag and a purse while the older gentleman was completely care free. But before the entire moment could truly register, I noticed that the care free gray haired guy with this apologetic assistant was none other than “Malcolm McLaren”. My mouth at this point was wide open. They both must have truly thought me to be completely bonkers. All time and motion in the surreal world of Mal Sirrah literally stopped.


Can you imagine? The blog post, the inspiration, the transporting to Paris, fashion/style doppelganger, namesake, the whole bit - - - I couldn’t say a word. All I could do was to make a pitiful attempt at pulling myself together with some resemblance of dignity as I quickly and sheepishly ran off… By the time, I reached my boyfriend at the photographer’s studio I was a rambling fool (as my loyal CS&B readers know – this is not a stretch)… They both smiled at me (while shooting “What is he talking about?” looks towards each other) and continued selecting the photos for the editorial. I sat there quietly as Malcolm McLaren’s “Buffalo Girls” played in my head and break dancers hip-hopped across the photographer’s images. Afternoons like these kiddies can only happen in New York (or Paris).


You all must view the video below as Malcolm McLaren discusses art and commerce. I post the following for more reasons than any of you can ever imagine at this very crucial juncture in the development of the Mal Sirrah brand:

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Mal Sirrah's Inspiration and Fashion Flashback

Today I found myself day dreaming and being moved through time by two of my favorite style influencers and fashion doppelgangers - Malcolm Mclaren and Catherine Deneuve (former muse to Yves Saint Laurent). These two ghostly figures shadow me around every New York City and Paris street corner. There are often times when I can hear my namesake's "give'em hell whispers". While I am truly a collective of all the artists that I believe have paved the way, I must admit that I am void of all nostalgia. I am simply committed and compelled to forge forward where they left off. (I truly hope that all of my aspiring designers that email me on a regular basis are truly getting the real message here - - - A fashion designer's collection is simply a "collective" of his or her's inspirations, dreams and influences held together by materials and craftsmanship. Everything after that is the business of fashion.)

Once you click the following video you will know exactly where I was transported for the majority of my work day. I hope that it's viewing does the same for you!!!


Malcolm Mclaren's album referenced above guided me through my "return to fashion collection" as reviewed below by "The French Review" in this Mal Sirrah fashion flashback:

By: Jean Paul Cauvin
Illustration by: Julien Fournié

Mal Sirrah Spring 2006: Delicate Girls in Harlem

NEW YORK, Sep 8, 2005 - Believe it or not, the very first show for this Spring 2006 season took place in a Harlem mansion, a somewhat unusual venue, but really fresh surprise.

You certainly remember Katsumi and Malcolm, a label formerly designed in Manhattan and now headquartered in Tokyo. Well, Malcolm Harris, who has been designing both ready-to-wear and made-to-order pieces for more than ten years is the same Malcolm as in Katsumi and Malcolm, just as in Mal Sirrah. He has just dropped the second syllable in his first name and spelt his surname backwards for this new solo project.

Cool wasabi green, whispering canary yellow and antique rose are the tones for this collection which focuses on the urge to regain calm via color.

This color therapy complements very well the research for true simplicity that the designer seems to have undertaken in a very sincere way, trying to fight the blatant turmoil and heightened volume of today’s world with a wardrobe designed to reveal the delicate girl inside, her fragile tenderness and her soft charm.

Gingham or crinkled silks, sometimes very finely pinstriped, sometimes sequined with craft, are interpreted in short dresses, jackets and shorts. These refined pieces, especially in their structure, give an overall Impression of simplicity that is the sign for a truly mature design. A light mint organdy overlay comes in nicely on a tuxedo shirt inspired shift dress, a sleeveless tee-shirt is happily valanced on the shoulders, a very short charmeuse dress worn under a short silk trench reveals a contrasted length in the back.

Inspired by the sixties’ looks, Malcolm Sirrah reinterprets clothes for today, showing much personality and pertinence. Although Mr. Harris likes to describe his pseudonym as an “alter ego”, Mal Sirrah could well be just a rosebud that will astonish and enchant when it becomes a mature flower.

The soothing wooden décor together with the smell of real white lilacs in which this presentation was set, tuned by refined Malcolm McLaren music are the atmosphere and the very place where Mal Sirrah is working and growing.

In this setting and dispositions who could be surprised that Mal Sirrah’s future will be both successful and astonishing?

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Update on the passing of Runway Diva Extraordinaire - Katoucha

It deeply saddens me to provide you all with the latest update on the passing of the legendary uber model Katoucha. As you all now know, Katoucha was not simply another black model that graced the runway - she dominated the catwalk. But as my dear friend Jay Alexander said, "Only Katoucha would have the nerve to resurface on the same exact day as the showing of the new Yves Saint Laurent Collection. Now that is what you call a true Runway Diva Extraordinaire. " Rest in peace our "Black Princess"...

Katoucha in Yves Saint Laurent's Farewell show on January 22, 2002
This is the way the "Black Princess" will forever remain in my dreams and heart.
Katoucha was truly one of the my favorite models of all time.


Paris (AP) Paris police found a body in the River Seine today thought to be that of a missing Guinean former model, one time muse of fashion giant Yves Saint Laurent, who vanished from her houseboat a month ago.

Nicknamed the “black princess”, the 47-year-old Katoucha Niane went missing from her home on a central stretch of the river on the night of February 1.

The mother-of-three disappeared after being dropped off from a party and her handbag was later recovered near her houseboat.

A woman’s body fitting Katoucha’s description was pulled Thursday from the Seine, in Boulogne just west of the capital, according to a police official, who said investigators were at the scene gathering evidence.

Police said the body, which was spotted under a bridge by a passer-by and was thought to have been in the water for close to a month, appeared to be wearing the former model’s clothes.

The death appeared to be accidental, officials said, but an autopsy was needed to determine its exact cause.

Police said they had no evidence so far to suggest the model may have been murdered.
Born in Conakry, Katoucha worked with the greatest haute couture stars at the height of her career in the 1980s including Saint Laurent.

Katoucha left the catwalk for good in 1994, but in recent years she made headlines as an outspoken campaigner against female circumcision, launching a foundation against the practice.

Excised at the age of nine, in her home country Guinea, Katoucha recounted the ordeal in a recent book entitled “In My Flesh”.
She said she saw her career as a top model as a form of “revenge” for the horror of excision.
“I embodied the most arrogant and admired kind of feminity, I who was supposed to be diminished,” she wrote.