Photographer Nick Knight Stands Up Against Racism in Fashion

Nick Knight's stirring video - UNTITLED

Late last week I came across photographer Nick Knight’s new video featuring Naomi Campbell addressing racism in the fashion industry. I will admit that I was haunted by this video the entire weekend, but vowed that I wouldn’t comment on it as I am a bit tired of talking about racism in the fashion industry. We can talk about this issue until we are all blue in the face (in my case black and blue in the face), but unless the people who control the industry (the gate keepers) are ready for a “serious” and meaningful dialogue on this subject, within six months the fashion industry will once again return to its racial status quo.

I even managed to stay quiet during this "fuckery" from American Vogue - Is Fashion Racist? Are you kidding me??? HELL YEAH!!!

Nick Knight Photo of Japanese/American model Devon Aoki

But this was Nick Knight finally speaking up – despite his creative genius – this was a crack within the establishment. This was an opportunity to engage one of the gate keepers in a serious dialogue – to understand why a great number of them sit silently by as an entire race is held at bay – an entire race growing angrier and disillusioned.

Photographer Nick Knight

So first thing this morning, after finding several emails from different friends forwarding me links to this video, I finally decided to shoot off the following to Mr. Nick Knight, both via his amazing website (ShowStudio) and to his direct email (which of course one of my contacts forwarded to me)… I now share these comments with you and look forward to you joining the conversation.

One of my favorite Nick Knight photos of model Debra Shaw

Comments to Nick:

Firstly, Nick - Bravo!!! Thank you so very much for acknowledging the complicity of those that are held responsible for moving fashion forward for being silent partners in this offense. No longer can the gate keepers of fashion remain silent. Silence equals complicity!

My name is Malcolm Harris (Mal Sirrah) and I am an African-American fashion designer living and working here in New York City. My resume reads like a "Who’s Who" in fashion (apprenticed at the houses of YSL, JPG and Paco Rabanne - talents first brought to the forefront by Madonna as well as Patricia Field) meanwhile most people in fashion or in the world have never heard of me... Ask yourself why??? No one has ever disputed my talent (praised by Cathy Horyn, Suzy Menkes and even Diane Von Furstenberg herself), but still, when it comes to the majority of the fashion press and/or industry decision makers promoting a "black fashion designer" is almost unheard of... Remember, without black designers to book black and/or ethnic models, the cycle continues…

Last year I was nominated for the Ecco Domani, CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund and Fashion Group International Rising Star awards and received reference letters and nominations from: Diave Von Furstenberg (president of the CFDA), Cathy Horyn (The New York Times), Ann Watson (Fashion Director of Henri Bendels), Reese Witherspoon (Academy Award winning actress) and Patricia Fields (Style Guru) just to name a few.

I have even been blessed with great career long support from celebrities such as Reese Witherspoon and Madonna - but still the fashion industry prefers to keep black designers in the shadows away from the mainstream as well as the spotlight...

Let me share a quick story with you… Recently, I had a meeting with a potential investor who said to me the most disgusting and racist thing I have ever heard. This man with his huge checkbook and impressive portfolio said to me, “Based on your talent alone I would have no problems backing you today, but the fact of the matter is that it would truly take Barack Obama winning president for me to even consider backing an African-American designer at this moment. People just aren’t ready to buy luxury products from a Black designer.” He said this half-jokingly, which only added to the serious and insulting nature of his comments. I was absolutely floored. He went on to say to me, “People only buy Sean Jean and Kimora’s clothes because they are already big celebrities and they aren’t expensive.” The fact that he was using these two people as reference points as fashion designers truly showed me his lack of respect for me as well as my profession. Of course, I graciously told him to go “Fuck Himself” and that when Barack became President I would come back so that he could “kiss my black ass”. Which brings me to my second point…

I was vilified by the fashion industry for this finale of my show September 2006 fashion show. At this time no one wanted to talk about race - but now two years later its the "new trend"...

I have always made it a point to let people know that racism exists in fashion – and for this, I have been systematically punished by the fashion industry if not shunned because I refuse to “play nice”. And this has come from both parts of the field – politically correct blacks that don’t want me to make any waves and whites that wish I would simply take my toys and go home. I haven’t even heard that blacks should be more like Asians in fashion and simply “sneak in the best way we know hose”… This was whispered to me by a prominent “African-American” in the fashion industry. Believe me when I say – “Racism in fashion is alive and thriving…”

Nick when you pointed out how this behavior of silent and complicit racism within the fashion industry makes you increasingly sad and angry – I ask you – “Imagine how we feel?” My own personal anger and sadness are palpable. But instead of the fashion industry addressing our concerns they turn us into raging figures of hatred and bitterness and label us “Angry Black Men or Women”. My disdain for Naomi Campbell’s public persona is well recorded and doesn’t really require any lengthy commentary, however, I myself am guilty of never asking – “Just why does Naomi continue to behave in this manner?” I finally believe I know why… The answer has been staring us all in the face but we all chose to ignore it. “Naomi is a product of an industry that has overtly told her since she was a teenager that you are not as good nor as valuable as your white counterpart. You will always be less than and simply consider yourself lucky to be here.” That is why Naomi is so very angry… This is why such a beautiful creature continues to behave in such an ugly way…

New York Times article by Eric Wilson

Almost two years ago I was featured in The New York Times (two years straight) just before fashion week regarding being one of the few black fashion designers showing during fashion week. In less than two year since this last article ran, I have lost almost all desire to be a part of the fashion industry as it exists today. Instead, I have created an entire new language and forum for myself that has almost nothing to do with the “powers-that-be” or the fashion industry per se. I have found a way to reach my customer base direct. But I am one of the fortunate few… On a daily basis I receive emails from black designers, models, hair/make-up artists and fashion stylists wondering why there aren’t many blacks in fashion for them to aspire to be like, or why they can’t find a way to “get in”… I wish people could feel the pain and frustration in most of these emails. I try my best to answer them as cautiously as possible as I always want to give them hope – but sometimes it’s difficult to dispense hope when you know that an entire industry is guarding the gate in an effort to keep them out. And this has more to do with simple advertising dollars and cents.

Something tells me that the fashion industry preferred it when we were relegated to selling baked goods instead of beauty products

Liya Kebede for Estee Lauder

I truly do believe the proverbial Pandora’s box on racism has been opened and we must all now have the courage to keep it open. The dialogue must be broadened beyond simply using black models as we all know they merely act as a microcosm if not shield to fashion’s dirtier secret.

Nick, as an African-American fashion designer, I would like to personally thank you for acknowledging the struggle of blacks in fashion through your narrative as well as commemorating our anger and frustration via your stirring video of a machine gun wielding Naomi. The discussion has now begun – now let’s hope we can collectively move towards reparations…

The time has finally come for fashion to truly move forward!!!

by photographer Nick Knight